Topic: jb3 external power II...

[jdawg]

succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs.  1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.

JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.

2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours.  and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.

This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package. 

+T for the "altoids tin" idea. I was just going to run to Fry Electronics and pick up a box. Looks like I'll save a fews more bucks.  thanks!

[fozzy]

succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs.  1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.

JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.

2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours.  and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.

This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package. 

+T for the "altoids tin" idea. I was just going to run to Fry Electronics and pick up a box. Looks like I'll save a fews more bucks.  thanks!

the little project boxes are nice but for prototypes i just use whatever i got laying around. 

[fozzy]

succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs.  1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.

JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.

2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours.  and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.

This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package. 

while running some testing i ran into an additional "feature".  after about 20hrs(on [4] 7.2c 3300Mah cells) of recording the stereo my batts died and caused the SBM-1 to shutdown which left the JB3 running and was able to stop the recording w/o loosing the current track, hours after the battery drain.  In most cases the JB3 freezes after it looses it external source ie.  SLA > RS adapter > JB3.   I imagine for you v3 > JB3 tapers could adjust the internal settings to kill the V3 at a point before the JB3 locks up, so you could at least save what you have captured and not loose everything. 


fwiw I am now using surfacemount Panasonic AN77xxSP based regulator for 6v and a Linear Technology LT1086 for 5v. 

AN7706SP-ND     6v
LT1086CT-5       5v

Coming next:  getting all this inside the battery tray of my SVU-1.  I no longer need my Hosa to be powered so i plan to use the pt5045 to give the svu-1 9v and stick the other two circuits in there.

[JackoRoses]

OK I figured out what I was doing wrong. EUE as we all expected. (end user error)
See what I was trying to do here was...
I bought the car adapter per this thread..
What I did not want to do was hack the adapter like some have done.
I wanted to continue to use the adapter in the car whenever I wanted.
So I bought a Y female adapter that plugs into the car and will allow you to power 2 devices off it.
I also bought a Y adaptacable so I could plug in the one side to the battery and then split off
to power my devices.
I hacked the one side off the Y car adapter to use. I then soldered my wires together, white to white black to black.
Well evidently this was not the correct way of thinking. Everytime I plugged into the battery and then the jb3, I was shorting the lithium out. I could not figure out what I was doing wrong..
I kept tip to tip, color coded wires together, everything seemed to be right?
Wrong, last night I decided to rip everything apart and start fresh.
I figured out that I had wires crossed, soon as I switched wires, white to black, black to white.
The JB3 powered right up. It was beautiful.
Fozzy thanks for your insight. And thanks to everyone else for your contributions.
Thanks for letting me use this as a place to think out loud.

I will try and snap a picture to share later on.
the adaptacable y

and it all working 

[F.O.Bean]

+T jackorose

[thierryhenry]

Very nice Jackarose, what was the total cost then?

[JackoRoses]

Very nice Jackarose, what was the total cost then?

I don't quite recall..
The y car adapter was 10$
the y adaptacable was under 10$ (around $6 iirc)
the car adapter itself was under 20 (15$ I think).
Adaptaplugs were $5 each (x3) =$15
total not more then $55
The car adapter is nice because the box lets you stash more adaptaplugs in it.
Or whatever you need to stick in there
Or it can be bulky depending on how you want to look at it.
About the price of a new battery for the JB3, yet now I can run a lot longer
then 2 jb3 batteries.

[thierryhenry]

Cool thanks.

[jdawg]

In an effort to keep this thread as long as "jb3 external power I"    I figured I'd share a few pics of my 5v regulator that I just finished tonight! This was the first circuit I've ever put together I think. Anyway, here are a few shots. Now whether or not I'd actually use this in the field, who knows, but it was fun just working on it. And thanks again to Fozzy for that Altoids tin idea!

[fozzy]

very nice +t  What are the specifics?

[jdawg]

I was afraid someone would ask me that 

Seriously though, I used a LM317 VR (radio shack: 276-1778) which puts out ~5.2 volts. The intent was to only power the JB3. Just found out this also powers my D8 as well.
Resistor values used:  R1:150   R2:470
Also have a 1k resistor in there that goes out to the LED.
And there's also a switch as you can see, same side as the LED.
There are 4 screws mounted from the bottom to hold the circuit board in place.
Oh yeah, the LM317 is also mounted onto a heatsink.
Total cost ~10 maybe? 

That's about all I know...

[leegeddy]

2nd Bumblebee VR-JBOX is heading out the door to JKelly. he opted for the 5v/6v outputs. i snapped some shots here:

Dual output box with xlr covers in place:


Dual voltage outputs via 4pin XLRF:


Single voltage input via 4pin XLRM:


Walmart LiION input, 2 outputs connected:


Closer shot:


vr circuits are based on the LM317 chips with internal heatsinks. rated current for each circuit is +/-1.5amps.

marc

[JackoRoses]

I still don't quite understand what the concept is behind using
the XLR's? is it to keep the plugs locked in?
but why worry about that, with the wal-mart lion it is just a adataplug..
Those plugs don't just come loose anyway without some sort of help.
I can understand sort of if people would use this with the SLA's but
most here are moving to lithium I think. Just trying to grasp the idea.
Seems like XLR power connectors should go the way of the SLA's
but maybe I am missing something?
Nice looking box still and I am still interested in playing with it too.

[aberg]

What that box looks amazing... so professional! Nice job!

[Brian Skalinder]

I still don't quite understand what the concept is behind using
the XLR's? is it to keep the plugs locked in?
but why worry about that, with the wal-mart lion it is just a adataplug..
Those plugs don't just come loose anyway without some sort of help.

If I could, I'd have locking adapters on all my connections.  Wait a minute...I do!

XLR's provide an easy way of locking the power connections.  IME, those darn adaptaplugs are easily bumped out of position / disconnected accidentally.  The XLR on the input side may also ensure compatibility with SLA systems if people want to use big-ass SLAs at festivals.  Marc?